Trecker’s Travels: Typical 5-star Portuguese hospitality
Benfica won their third trophy of the season last weekend (Reuters Image).
LISBON –
Red and white coursed down the tight streets of the capital on Sunday night, in an echo of the party taking place in Islington. While London had 250,000 fans, only about 3,000 showed up in the center of the Portuguese capital to celebrate — but what Benfica had accomplished inarguably shades Arsenal’s FA Cup triumph.
Benfica, one of Portugal’s great teams, completed a historic domestic treble, winning the Portuguese Cup, 1-0 over Rio Ave to add to their haul of the league and league cup trophies this season. They might have had four: just four days prior, Benfica had continued their cursed streak in Europe, falling to Sevilla in the Europa League finals. (Benfica have been shut out on the continent for 52 years, allegedly due to a hex that Bela Guttmann slapped on the club after they won the 1962 European Cup.) So the restaurants and fado joints in this tight city of winding streets were full of fans late into the night, many in team shirts; many more with handmade, old-school scarves.
Lisbon is mad about football, and they boast two of the greatest teams in the game, Sporting and Benfica. Saturday, they will host the UEFA Champions League final, and if there is a regret that the game will be contested between teams from their far bigger neighbor to their West, few here are showing it. Instead, the typical Portuguese hospitality is on full display, with signs across the Barrio Alto welcoming fans and pumping up the big game.
Benfica fans celebrate the cup win over Rio Ave on Sunday (Getty Image).
Now, Lisbon is a small city – just around 600,000 in the core city center, another 2 million in the suburbs – and in the aftermath of the financial crisis that rocked Europe, it still feels a bit empty. Graffiti lines many of the major streets, and a number of the buildings look vacant. Granted, Lisbon is a late starting city – many shops and restaurants open at 4 in the afternoon and remain open into the wee hours of the morning – but the scars of the nation’s near-bankruptcy in 2011 remain. Walking up and down the hills here, it’s easy to see shattered windows and boarded up townhouses. It’s also easy to find spectacularly good food and friendly conversation, a mark of just how resilient this ancient city is in the face of adversity.
The Champions League final will also fall around the anniversary of one of Portugal’s most pivotal moments: forty years ago, the right-wing Estado Novo was toppled in the Carnation Revolution, forming the Third Portuguese Republic. The 25th of April remains a national holiday, and the event is being marked at sites around Lisbon with large reproductions of news photographs outside plazas, museums and statues.
The Estadio da Luz is the site of this year’s Champions League final (Getty Images).
It’s an uncomfortable memory for some: the revolution caused an exodus (if you live in New England, you probably have a Portuguese bakery or restaurant in spitting distance of you) and there are some mutterings that the fiscal irresponsibility under the Third Republic’s watch has laid this nation low.
Still, the city feels primed for a celebration. The Champions League final is bringing the world into the city, and the European Cup is back in Portugal, if not to stay. And don’t be surprised to hear some chants of “Amo-Te Benfica” from the crowd at the Estadio da Luz. After all, it is Benfica’s home stadium.





























